Brazil's land of bounty and beauty

16 Mar 2010 (IndiaVision) - The next time you take a bite of a beefburger, you could be participating in an energy chain that stretches all the way to Brazil's Pantanal, the world's largest wetland. The Brazilian beef industry exports around 17 of its products to the Middle East, with Dubai importing around 50 per cent of its organic beef from the state of Mato Grosso do Sul alone. Considering there were 50 Brazilian meat companies represented at a recent Dubai trade show, I headed to the centre of South America to learn where our beef comes from and discovered one of the world's most biologically rich ecosystems.

Compressed creation

The Pantanal is the result of a huge compression in the Earth's crust, creating a 624,000-square-kilometre floodplain found in the Brazilian states of Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sul, stretching into Paraguay and Bolivia. It is the largest wetland of any kind, home to 640 species of birds, 190 types of reptiles and freshwater fish, and a butterfly lover's paradise. Some of the land is privately owned and used for agriculture and cattle, leading many conservationists to express concern for the survival of this unique biosphere. Fortunately, with new laws in place, the environmental importance of Pantanal has been recognised and it is becoming an ecotourism hotspot. Driving a few hours outside the state capital of Campo Grande, I found myself at Pousada Aguapé, an ecolodge in the area, being led on a horse into the wetlands. Different from a swamp, the high water table makes the ground fertile and rich, a boon for farmers, animals and, of course, mosquitoes. The heat and humidity was intense. It was late afternoon and the dusky sky was already awash in bright pink and orange. Two blue hyacinth macaws, mated for life, were also watching the sunset perched on a tree. A juvenile yacare caiman lay still on the water's edge, one of millions found in the Pantanal, the largest concentration of crocodilians on Earth. My horse ambled along, mindful of deep puddles and the 25 species of snakes in the region (including the anaconda). A few minutes later, we encountered our first herd of zebu cows, a species best adapted for this tropical region. One of the most aggressive types of domestic cattle, they have unicorn-white coats and a large hump between their shoulders. In the fading orange light with their coats glowing, they even looked beautiful. Roaming free on a natural, organic diet, I'm sure they taste delicious, too.

Rare sights

The elusive jaguar remained hidden during my night safari. Many visitors are lucky to see one but as on any safari, you just can't guarantee. I did see dozens of caiman, the rare marsh deer, emu and several capybara, the world's largest rodent. Even more spectacular was the sheet lightning rolling across the sky, as if paparazzi were photographing a celebrity. Due to atmospheric conditions, the Pantanal has some incredible lightning storms. At the Fazenda San Francisco, located a further 160 kilometres into the wetlands, the adventure continued on a river cruise in an adjacent tributary. Piranha roam these waters, and although they are infamous for their carnivorous appetite, catching them is as easy as throwing a baited line into the water. Within seconds, I felt a tug on my stick and was surprised to find a piranha clinging to the end of the hook. Its sharp teeth are frightening but according to my guide, piranhas are not quite the meat-stripping monsters as they are portrayed in movies. They mostly eat other fish and will only prey on humans if there's nothing else to eat. Once again, the jaguars that roam the wetlands remained hidden on my night safari but from the back of the Land Rover, I did spot a muscular tapir, the largest indigenous mammal in South America.

Ecotourism gains

There are only two officially protected areas in the Pantanal but many farms are turning to ecotourism for revenue. As a result, the small town of Bonito, located on the Pantanal's outskirts, has quickly grown into Brazil's outdoor adventure wonderland. ATV tours, caving, rafting, wildlife viewing, river diving and waterfalls attract everyone from backpackers to high rollers. High fallers, too, as I discovered abseiling off a 90-metre high platform adjacent to Boca da Onca, Mato Grosso do Sul's highest waterfall. This day trip allows guests to either lower themselves to the bottom or to walk a 5-kilometre boardwalk through a series of waterfalls to Boca da Onca, or the Mouth of the Puma. Nothing beats tropical heat than refreshing yourself under a 90-metre waterfall in a sparkling emerald pool.

Amazing attraction

Alternatively, you can head to Rio da Prata, a farm that generates 80 per cent of its revenue from tourism. The reason is as clear as its star attraction: Where else can you float for three hours down a spring among thousands of freshwater fish? Visitors are provided wetsuits and snorkels and can drift in small groups with the current in this strikingly beautiful underwater world. Huge golden dorado, a fierce looking fish, demand a wide berth but kicking is unnecessary since the current is strong enough to carry you the exit point. It is one of the most amazing experiences to be had on any river, anywhere. Although the Pantanal wetland has activities year round, the best time to visit is outside of the rainy season of March to December. The vegetation is lush, the birdlife is extraordinary, and you may even spot a jaguar. One animal you're guaranteed to see is some of the Pantanal's 22 million head of cattle. Dining at a churrascaria, Brazil's traditional meat feast, I realised that exploring the origins of our food can be a lot more fun than a trip to the supermarket.