Special fares : There is a special Indrail Pass consisting of a single non-transferable ticket which enables a visitor to travel on any train without restriction within the period of validity. It is sold only to foreign nationals and Indians residing abroad holding a valid passport, and replaces all other concessional tickets. Payment is accepted only in foreign currency (US Dollars or Sterling). Refunds can be given only if cancellation is made before the starting date. Children between 5-11 years of age are entitled to a Child Indrail Pass and pay roughly half the normal fare. Children under five years of age travel free. The normal free baggage allowances are 70kg air-conditioned class, 50kg first-class/AC Chair Car and 35kg second-class. Child Indrail Pass holders are entitled to half the above allowances. Holders of an Indrail Pass travelling on the Reydhani Express and Shatabdi Express are exempted from all reservation fees, sleeping car charges, express train meal charges and other costs. Validity: A ticket can be used within one year of its issue. Validity period is from the date of commencement of the first journey up to midnight of the date on which validity expires. The ticket must be used within one year of its issue. Advance reservation is essential, particularly on overnight journeys, arranged through travel agents. Reservations are on a first-come-first-served basis. For individuals or small groups a 2/3-month notice should suffice; during summer months a longer period is desirable to ensure reservations for the entire itinerary. Reservations can be made up to 360 days in advance. Indrail passes can be reserved in the UK from SD Enterprises. Tel: (0181) 903 3411 or 200 9549. Fax: (0181) 903 0392. (E-mail: dandpani@dircom.co.uk) The passes can also be purchased in India at all the main railway stations and authorised agents.

Palace on Wheels : Expensively decorated Edwardian-style luxury steam train with 14 coaches. Each coach consists of a saloon, four sleeping compartments with upper and lower berth, bathroom, shower, toilet and small kitchen. Room service is available. There is a dining car, a bar, an observation car and a fully-equipped first-aid centre. Modern amenities include air-conditioning, four channel music and telephone intercom throughout the train. Tariff includes cost of travel; full catering; elephant, camel and boat rides; conducted sightseeing tours; and entrance fees.

Itinerary : Delhi-Jaipur-Chittaurgarh-Udaipur-Sawai Madhopur-Jaisalmer-Jodhpur-Bharatpur-Agra-Delhi.

Bookings : Several tour operators/travel agents organise escorted tour facilities which include the Palace on Wheels.

Also interesting is a journey on the Toy Train, a narrow-gauge rail line completed in 1881. Covering the route Calcutta-New Jalpaiguri-Darjeeling in 8 hours, it crosses over 500 bridges and offers ample opportunity for photos as the pace is leisurely. There is one daily train in either direction.

ROAD : Traffic drives on the left. An extensive network of bus services connects all parts of the country, and is particularly useful for the mountainous regions where there are no rail services. Details of routes may be obtained from the local tourist office. Tourist cars : There are a large number of chauffeur-driven tourist cars (some air-conditioned) available in the main tourist centres. These unmetered tourist cars run at a slightly higher rate than the ordinary taxis, and are approved by the Government of India Tourist Office. Self-drive cars are not generally available. Documentation : An International Driving Permit is required.

URBAN : Taxis and auto rickshaws are available in large cities and fares should be charged by the kilometre. They do not always have meters but, where they do, visitors should insist on the meter being flagged in their presence. Fares change from time to time and therefore do not always conform to the reading on the meter, but drivers should always have a copy of the latest fare chart available for inspection. Public transport is often crowded and can be uncomfortable. For those interested, Mumbai Electric Supply & Transport (BEST) is one of the best public transport operators in India. A 16.45km (10-mile) underground railway was completed in Calcutta in 1995.

JOURNEY TIMES : The following chart gives approximate journey times (in hours and minutes) from Delhi to other major cities/towns in India. For other cities visit our Tour-India page Distances Between Tourist Cities.

Air Road Rail Sea

Mumbai 1.50 28.00 17.30a -

Calcutta 2.00 30.00 18.00b -

Chennai 3.00 45.00 32.00 -

Hyd'bad 1.55 40.00 24.00 -

Agra 0.40 4.30 3.15 -

Jaipur 0.40 6.00 5.15 -

Jammu 1.50 14.45 16.00 -

Triv'rum 5.00c 62.00 60.00 -

Patna 1.30 22.00 16.00 -

Port Blair 5.05c - d

a. Time by express (not daily); normal train takes 23 hours. b. Time by express (not daily); normal train takes 25 hours. c. Does not include stopover in Chennai. d. Boat journey from Chennai takes 3-4 days.

Note : Further information (including route maps, times of express trains and more detailed journey-time charts) may be found in the official India brochure, available free from the Government of India Tourist Office (see address section).

International Travel

AIR : India's national airline is Air India (AI).

For free advice on air travel from the UK, call the Air Travel Advisory Bureau in the UK on (0171) 636 5000 or (0161) 638 2000 (Manchester).

Approximate flight times : From London to Delhi is 9 hours, to Calcutta is 12 hours, to Chennai is 12 hours 30 minutes and to Mumbai is 9 hours.

From Los Angeles to Delhi is 25 hours 30 minutes.

From New York to Delhi is 18 hours.

From Singapore to Delhi is 5 hours.

From Sydney to Delhi is 10 hours.

International airports : All the above airports have money exchange facilities, tourist information offices and hotel reservation services.

Mumbai (BOM) is 29km (18 miles) north of the city (travel time - 75-90 minutes). Taxi services go to the city. Taxi fares should have fixed rates from the airport to the city. Public transport is also available in the form of the EATS bus service and local buses. Other facilities include a retiring room for passengers in transit and a child-care lounge.

Calcutta (CCU) is 13km (8 miles) northeast of the city (travel time - 40-60 minutes). There is a 24-hour coach service to Indian Airlines city office and major hotels. A bus goes every 10 minutes 0530-2200. Taxi services go to the city. There is a 24-hour post office, bars, duty-free shops and restaurants available.

Delhi (DEL) (Indira Gandhi International) (web site:http://www.netfx/delhi/airport.html) is 22km (15 miles) south of the city (travel time - 45 minutes). There are coach, bus and taxi services to the city. There are 24-hour duty-free shops and restaurants.

Chennai (MAA) is 14km (8 miles) southwest of the city (travel time - 30-40 minutes). A coach meets all flight arrivals 0900-2300. There is a train every 20-30 minutes from 0500-2300. Bus no. 18A runs every 25 minutes from 0500-2200. Taxi services go to the city.

Departure tax : All airports except Mumbai (BOM) levy the following departure tax: RS150 (for flights to Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Bhutan, Maldives, Myanmar, Nepal, Pakistan and Sri Lanka). RS500 (all other destinations).

Note : Ahmedabad Airport is being upgraded as an international airport.

SEA : The main passenger ports are Mumbai, Calcutta, Cochin, Chennai, Calicut, Panaji (Goa) and Rameswaram (the main departure point for the sea crossing to Sri Lanka; passenger services are presently suspended due to the political situation in Sri Lanka).

Indian ports are also served by several international shipping companies and several cruise lines. There are, however, no regular passenger liners operating to South-East Asia.

Departure tax : Seaports levy the following departure tax: RS150 (for journeys to Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Bhutan, Maldives, Myanmar, Nepal, Pakistan and Sri Lanka). RS500 (all other destinations).

RAIL : This section gives details of the major overland routes to neighbouring countries (where frontiers are open); in most cases these will involve road as well as rail travel. Details should be checked with the Government of India Tourist Office as they may be subject to change (see address section).

Connections to Pakistan : currently only possible between Amritsar and Lahore (New Delhi-Amritsar-Lahore-Hyderabad-Karachi).

Connections to Nepal : the most practical and popular route to Nepal is by train to Raxaul (Bihar) and then by bus to Kathmandu or by train to Gorakphur (or by bus if coming from Varanasi) and then by bus to Kathmandu crossing the border at Sunauli; also, by train to Nantanwa (UP) and then by bus to Kathmandu/Pokhara, or Bhairawa to Lumbini for Pokhara. It is also possible to make the crossing from Darjeeling by bus to Kathmandu across the southern lowlands.

Connections to Bhutan : the best way of reaching Bhutan is by train to Siliguri, then bus to Phuntsholing. There is also an airlink from Calcutta to Paro by Druk Air.

Connections to Bangladesh : the best route to Bangladesh is Calcutta to Bongaon (West Bengal) by train, rickshaw across the border to Benapol, with connections via Khulna or Jessore to Dhaka. Another route is from Darjeeling via Siliguri, then train or bus from Jalpaiguri to Haldibari.

Currently no land frontiers are open between India and Myanmar or the People's Republic of China.

ROAD : Of late, the overland route from Europe to India has become very popular, but travellers should have accurate information about border crossings, visa requirements and political situations en route. Several 'adventure holiday' companies arrange overland tours and buses to India. For information on overland routes to neighbouring countries, consult the Rail section above.

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